Behind every perfectly wrapped wedge of Brie or hunk of aged Comté is a trained professional. Like a sommelier for wine, this specialist offers expert advice on all things cheese: pairings, tastings, storage, and so much more.
The demand for specialty cheese is exploding. Consumers want expert guidance navigating the cheese world. That involves everything from the best way to slice and serve them to storing themto be enjoyed longer. This is where a cheesemonger comes in.
What Is a Cheesemonger?
The simple definition of a cheesemonger is a trained professional who selects, ages, stores, cuts, and sells cheese while advising customers on flavor profiles and what cheeses pair with what.
A “monger” is an old word from Old English, denoting a merchant for a specific commodity. However, not every person associated with cheese earns that title.
- Cheesemaker: Oversees every part of the cheese-making process. This includes selecting the ingredients, creating the curds and whey, cutting, salting, and pressing the cheese.
- Affineur: Specifically, “refines” the aging process. They physically turn the cheese, brush and wash it to develop the rind and flavor, and monitor humidity, temperature, and airflow.
- Cheesemonger: The monger is an expert in the selection, care, and sale of artisan and specialty cheeses.
|
Role |
Primary Responsibility |
Works With |
|
Cheesemaker |
Produces cheese |
Milk & cultures |
|
Affineur |
Ages & refines cheese |
Aging caves |
|
Cheesemonger |
Sells, promotes & stores cheese |
Customers |
A Brief History of Cheesemongers
Cheesemongers started in monasteries, with monks in charge of producing and managing cheese.
By the 13th century, cheese shops were popping up in France and the UK. In those medieval markets, fromagers in France were producing their own.
By the time of the Industrial Revolution, demand for cheesemongers fell as an emphasis on cheese volume took hold. After World War II, soldiers returning to America brought back products from other parts of the world, sparking greater interest in different food producers.
In the 1980s, demand for specialty cheeses increased. By the 1990s, grocery stores were adding to their selection. That required expertise to educate customers and provide customer service when buying cheese.
What Does a Cheesemonger Actually Do?
Cheese Selection & Sourcing
Like a wine expert, the true cheesemonger knows and evaluates various producers from all over the world. They understand the regions, ingredients, production methods, and seasonal availability.
Proper Storage & Aging
A good cheesemonger understands the importance of storage conditions. They’ll tell you that plastic wrap ruins cheese because it “suffocates” it and can lead to unwanted mold growth.
Breathability is essential to storing cheese.Speciality storage paper or cheese storage bags will extend the lifespan.
The proper mix of temperature and humidity also plays a role; the vegetable crisper in your refrigerator is ideal.
Cutting & Presentation
The way you cut cheese makes a huge difference in the flavor profile and presentation. From professional cheese knives to mini cheese knives for use at a party, the monger will recommend the right knife for cheese styles (soft, semi-soft, hard, and the like).
They’ll also happily share portioning techniques and show you how to prevent cross-contamination of flavors.
Pairing Recommendations
Part of the training for a cheesemonger involves an education in various flavor profiles. This helps them provide expert recommendations for pairing with other foods and beverages like wine, beer, fruit, nuts, chocolate, and charcuterie.
Skills Required to Become a Cheesemonger
Becoming a good cheesemonger takes several years of focused training in specific areas. Beyond the hands-on skills, they must also be able to describe and communicate this information effectively with customers.
Sensory Expertise
Identifying flavors, aromas, and ripeness. They must be able to recognize specific taste notes (fruity, nutty, etc.) and whether the flavor lasts or is short-term.
Using touch and sight, they assess the texture of the rind and the interior of the cheese.
Food Safety Knowledge
Understanding and adhering to the important food safety standards established by the FDA is a key part of a cheesemonger’s responsibilities.
Customer Education & Sales
To help the customer make the best decision, the cheesemonger must translate complex flavor notes into simple, precise language.
Certifications
Not every cheesemonger is officially certified; many learn through passion and experience. Certification isn’t a legal requirement in the cheese industry.
However, completing the exam to become an American Cheese Society Certified Cheese Professional (ACS CCP) reflects a high level of expertise.
Apprenticeship programs offer hands-on training in various areas, such as cutting, flavor profiles, and more.
What Others Don’t Tell You About Cheesemongers
- According to the American Cheese Society, there are only about 1,200 certified cheesemongers worldwide. That means that not every cheese counter will have one.
- You’re more likely to find quality advice at a specialty shop or farmer's market than at your local grocery store. They curate artisanal brands, whereas a supermarket focuses on volume and convenience.
- One of the most common mistakes consumers make is improper storage of cheese. Never wrap it in plastic; cheese must breathe. Choose wax paper,cheese storage paper, or a cheese storage bag.
- Knowledgeable cheesemongers don't just sell cheese. They’re experts on sourcing, flavor profiles, aging, safe handling, and education. They simply love to talk cheese!
How to Spot a Great Cheesemonger
Among other cheesemongers, how do you know that you’ve found your go-to person?
- They’ll ask you about your taste preferences to narrow down your selections.
- They’ll offer samples, but responsibly. These will be targeted to your preferences, so your palate doesn’t get overloaded.
- They’ll give you the right advice on how to store your purchases.
- They’ll recommend the right cutting tools for particular cheeses, such as a knife for soft vs hard cheeses.
How Cheesemongers Store Cheese
Cheesemongers understand that the right conditions make all the difference in storing cheese.
- Humidity testing: Ideal “relative humidity” is 75-95 percent in a temperature range of 50-55 degrees F. This covers most soft and hard cheeses. At home, the crisper section of your refrigerator most closely replicates the range.
- Airflow comparison: Too little airflow creates high humidity and unwanted mold. Too much dries out the cheese.
- Mold control analysis: Cheese samples are monitored to detect or prevent mold growth.
- Controlled refrigerator testing: Scientific monitoring of the temperature and environmental conditions in storage areas.
When testing home storage methods for cheese, breathable cheese storage paper or bags performed better than wax paper, plastic wrap, or plastic bags. They allowed for proper air flow to prevent mold or drying out.
How to Store Cheese Like a Cheesemonger
- Remove any plastic wrap. Re-wrapping in plastic after it’s opened “suffocates” the cheese.
- Wrap in breathable cheese paper.
- Store it in your vegetable drawer. This section of your refrigerator offers the ideal temperature/humidity control.
- After cutting cheese, rewrap it in the cheese paper or storage bag.
FAQ Section
- Is a cheesemonger the same as a cheesemaker?
No. The cheesemaker specifically presides over the production; the cheesemonger sells a variety of cheeses made by various producers. A cheesemonger has a deep understanding and knowledge of its aspects, including pairings, safe handling, complex flavor profiles, and more.
- Do cheesemongers age cheese?
Some cheesemongers are “affineurs,” a special class of monger responsible for refining it after it’s been made. They manage the temperature and physical conditions for proper aging.
- How do you become certified?
To become a certified cheese professional (CCP), the American Cheese Society (ACS) requires one of the following:
- 4,000 hours of industry experience and the passing of a 150-question exam.
- 2,000 hours of experience, combined with education, and the passing of a 150-question exam.
- Why does cheese need special paper?
Cheese paper allows the proper airflow to prevent the item from either “sweating” or drying out.
Conclusion
It's not just a job to sell cheese: an approachable cheesemonger is passionate about this delicious food! They'll share stories, tasty recommendations, and ensure you get the most out of your purchase after it's sold. If you’ve never worked with one, you’ll discover a true taste adventure.
Besides recommending great selections, they share the best ways to both serve and store them. For example, the right knivesmake a huge difference in presentation, flavor profile, and reducing waste. A soft cheeselike Brie requires something different than a wedge of hard Parmigiano Reggiano.
Storage conditions are also important. Replicate the ideal temperature/humidity balance by keeping your product in the crisper of your refrigerator. Use professional cheese storage bagsdesigned for breathability to preserve flavor and freshness.
Take your passion for artisanal cheese to the next level by getting to know your local cheesemonger. It’s a game-changer!
