PECORINO GINEPRO

While all 20 of Italy’s recently unified regions are inextricably linked to their own cuisine and agrarian traditions, Emilia-Romagna is a region that is synonymous with gastronomy. Between the Apennine mountains, the Po River Valley, and the Adriatic coastline, the region has birthed some of Italy’s most iconic products — Prosciutto di Parma, Culatello di Zibello, Parmigiano Reggiano, Grana Padano, Mortadella...even the noble balsamic vinegar of Modena plays a role in the region’s rich culinary tradition. The first written evidence of balsamic vinegar dates back to the 11th century, and it was later used as a medicinal remedy to treat everything from gastrointestinal distress to the plague. Today, it is an emblem of culinary excellence in a region that is so deeply connected to its agricultural roots, and passionate about preserving that tradition.

This Pecorino Ginepro is made in Tuscany and aged in Emilia-Romagna, acting as an ideal example of the concept of terroir - from the lush pastures to the rolling foothills of the mountains, sheep graze freely on a wide variety of indigenous grasses, herbs, and flora, such as the juniper (“ginepro” in Italian) that gives Pecorino Ginepro its name. The wide assortment of plants that grow here not only affects the milk and therefore the flavor of the variety of cheeses produced in the area, but are also themselves used in the affinage of Paolo’s traditional pecorinos. As he coats and ripens each of his cheeses in a different herb, spice, or regional product, Paolo is directly connecting the cheese to the land from which it was created and allowing it to express its terroir both inside and outside. Since the wheels are bathed in balsamic vinegar and barrel-aged with juniper berries, Pecorino Ginepro is a perfect representation of a regional pairing as described by the common phrase “what grows together, goes together.”

Paolo Farabegoli is an affineur — rather than making this cheese himself, he takes “green” wheels made by SALCIS and ages them to perfection. The cheese is aged for 3 months in beechwood boxes and coated in juniper berries and balsamic vinegar. Aging the wheels this way serves a dual purpose — not only does it contribute to flavor, but it also slows down the aging process, ensuring a well-aged cheese with a texture that is not too dry. The cheeses are aged in climate-controlled cellars so that the temperature, humidity, and airflow can be adjusted accordingly.

When Paolo Farabegoli was a child, he spent his time helping his grandmother Anita tend to the animals on their farm and assisting her with cheesemaking. Inspired by her techniques of aging the family’s cheese in old wine barrels full of dried herbs, flowers, and spices to preserve and protect them, he now ages his own cheese in the same style, encasing each wheel in a local herb, spice, or blend while aging. Since 1985, Paolo has been focusing on small-batch, limited run cheeses that showcase the culinary excellence that his region has to offer. Each unique flower or herb used determines the conditions in which the cheese will be aged — a true testament to Paolo’s attention to detail and deep respect for high quality ingredients.

Pecorino Ginepro is a visually striking cheese, with a dark brown rind encasing an ivory paste. It is slightly musty on the nose, and the crumbly, flaky paste yields a gently fruity, slightly nutty flavor. There is a hint of acidity and a lingering woodsiness with a whisper of juniper on the finish. The result is a bold and beautiful cheese with a delicate yet complex flavor that transports your palate to the Italian countryside where Paolo was raised.